Goodbye to my teachers

Today has involved sorting a few things out for my departure which is early saturday morning, I'll spend the day in Bangalore with J and then fly at 6:30am on sunday morning.

Practice was fun and light, but I was quite distracted. I kept thinking about what to pack where, what going home would be like, what I would miss, who I would miss, when I would come back...I still can't do shoulderstand due to the shoulder pain, but I did a superb headstand including the holding half way for 10 breaths and then coming back up for 10 breaths. I also bound in Mari D again.

I ran some errands like going to Meena's the silver selling lady to buy a few gifts. I always end up spending a fortune in there. She serves up the best chai in Mysore though, and she's incredibly nice. Actually here in Gokulam everyone seems to remember your name. I also got some chocolates from Gheeta, not sure if they'll survive the trip to the UK but we'll see. Her chocolates have been given to the Dalai Lama. They're very nice, and I'm not even a chocolate fan.

We had lunch at Gheeta's with Dr Navagaraj and our Ayurveda class. We had a great time, he said that the intimacy was the greatest thing about our meal. He was sad to see us go I think. We were all sad to part with him. Today he told us what our doshas were and it was funny. He told C that she was Kapha but she had some things which weren't like her hair that didn't have any lustre and was thin...he doesn't mince his words!

My tabla teacher gave me his email address and told me to email whenever I had a question and to keep practising "every day, some tabla, then come back". So I'll do that. He played for me so that I could film it on my camera. He's a very sweet man.

I went to say goodbye to Guruji and Saraswathi because tomorrow is led and it's always a bit busy so I probably wouldn't get the chance. They might be a bit confused when I turn up tomorrow though! Saraswathi gave me a huge hug and told me to come back soon. I felt a bit tearful. I went to Guruji and said goodbye, he also gave me a huge hug and the famed kiss on the lips. He asked "Why leaving?". I said "I have to go to work" to which he answered "ooooooooooh". As in "poor you" I think! I said I might come back next year and he laughed and said "In a month it is already next year". I had a photo with him which was cool and he wrote in my copy of "Suryanamaskara". e had a good giggle which I always really value, he has a beautiful smile...honestly, I'm not just being all gooey!

A little giggle for you guys out there: yesterday Guruji was helping Violetta get into Supta Kurmasana and after a bit he said "some fat is there". Not sure that yoga teachers back home could get away with saying something like that! Violetta btw is not overweight in any shape or form.

I had a couple of coconuts at the coconut stand and had a moment to contemplate my month in Mysore. I've loved all the food, the people, the yoga was exceptional, and there are so many other things. Even if I have to have Rabies shots again, I would come back to Mysore :)

Tune of the Day: "Somebody" - Depeche mode (suggested by Violetta)

Rabies prevention

My dog bite became swollen and darker in colour and my ayurveda teacher told me to go to the hospital immediately and have rabies shots. So off I went with AJ to have the shots, which was pretty easy. The doc sent me off to buy the shot at the medical store and then I came back and a nurse injected me....painfully. Those shots really hurt, right in the hip area. I have to have another friday, and then the last one back home in the UK. I asked Mister R to get me an appointment and already it is proving to be a problem. I have to go to another surgery and pay for the shot, and basically it isn't as straight forward as here. The medical service is actually very good here, apart from Rew's blood taking experience.

There was an ambulance outside the hospital with a person who had just died inside. The doors were open and the person was fully visible, the family were around grieving. In the west we aren't subjected to death like this. Nothing like this would happen, the person would be whisked away to the morgue. We aren't this familiar with death. It wasn't sad, it was quiet and calm, no drama.

I was supposed to go round V's house for a practice but came too late because of the hospital trip. Still I turned up and she asked me about mari D which I have been having a but of a struggle with. I went to show her how I couldn't do it, and just fell into it, both sides. It's probably due to me being warmer in the afternoon than in the morning.

Practice today was good but I can't do shoulder stand because of the shoulder recovering still but everything else was fun and comfortable. Dropbacks with Saraswathi were tough but I feel secure with her. I don't know how she does it but she just flips you up without yanking you up. I wonder if I'll feel as comfortable with someone else. Anyway I have to learn to do it on my own eventually.

Today I filmed my walk from the main street to the shala, it was dark so for part of it there's not a lot to see as there's no street lights, but it shows what it's like. I filmes up to when I took my shoes off and the walk to the door. When I came out I filmes too, up until mingling around the coconut man. I took footage of my tabla teacher playing as well. Today was my last lesson.

Lunch was at a portugese couple's house, they serve lunch to yoga students. It was excellent food, I would definately go again but I won't get the chance unfortunately. I haven't been eating dinner because of early practice, it definately helps and it seems to be in line with ayurvedic principles! Guruji says to have a milk dinner.

Tune of the Day: "Last dance in Copacabana" - Superfunk

Sleepy day

Today has been calm and sleepy. One of those days where doing hardly anything is most welcome. It's particularly hot and bright. I've been sorting out my things to bring home and it looks like packing won't be a problem. I'm not a great shopper so I haven't got a lot of extra stuff to pack. I did get 7 books though, I like the Bihar ones and they are about 100rs each, they are the most awkward thing apart from the tabla but they fit in an empty mat bag. One of my coolest purchases has been a camouflage mat bag made by the little lady up the road. It's sturdy and I love it. So much for detachment from material things!

I had a tabla class which went well, it's amazing how far I've come in 2 weeks. The brain learns to engage with it and the hand-brain co-ordination engages. My teacher V.R.R Bhargava (lessons bookable via Chakra house) is very advanced, he plays in concerts and then teaches as well. He told me to practice, practice, practice my playing in the UK, email him with any questions, and then come back. I'll do just that, hopefully I will get better at it.

Everything is "practice, practice, practice". Nothing comes from nowhere, and nothing is easy, but it comes bit by bit, with practice. Sigh.

I am going to visit V, a very nice yoga teacher from the States to work on technicalities, namely Supta K and Mari D. I have managed both in the past, but not recently. There has been quite some enthusiasm for the yoga group that I run back home, I've connected with some real fountains of knowledge here which will help me a great deal. Yogis are very helpful and kind people, most of them anyway.

Ho-hum, coming home....not really looking forward to it at all. I haven't been homesick or anything here, which isn't entirely suprising as I've travelled enough to eliminate that from my system. I'm looking forward to seeing my Mister R and all my lovely friends who I have missed, but I just wish they could come here instead. I feel very at home and I like the way of life, but I have to remind myself that I'm not doing any Big Company work which really helps. I'd rather be a full time phd, I'd stay out here a bit longer and I've been getting lots done, more than I get done back home. Blarg, Big Company, that's the wost thing by far.

Still, I have some time left here and some cool practices in the shala. Being upgraded to full-primary is nice, I've missed it, although I'm very pleased to have been able to focus on Supta K for the first 2 weeks. I think that Saraswathi is a great help, I've enjoyed having her help me. Guruji has been very inspiring and I will miss them. Sharath was only here at the begining and I found him to be a happy soul and also a great help.

Tune of the Day: "When I shine" - Herbaliser

Living it up

It was great to spend an afternoon at the pool, we went to the Lalith Mahal palace. The Regaalis (once named Southern Star) also has a pool but it's not that big and it can get busy as well. The Lalith Mahal is also a palace rather than just a hotel so it is much more impressive, it's nice to live it up a bit! It is expensive though, 175rs to use the pool, and the lunch buffet is 400rs. I wouldn't eat there again, the food was bland and really not that special, you'll get a better feed at Anu's. It was cool lying in the grass, chatting about nonsense.

We went back to the Mysore palace to see it lit up for the last time before 3 of us leave. On the way we were nearly in a rickshaw crash, but someone is obviously looking out for us up there. The gates open and everyone pushes to get in, even though there honestly is no rush. It's not like the palace is going to run off anywhere. In the scrum 3 indian teenage boys thought it would be a good idea to feel my bum up. Needless to say that I shouted. We were wondering if the palace lights were like xmas lights where when 1 dies the whole lot stop working. The lights are actually lightbulbs which cover the entire building and its annexes.

Practice today was really good, with little shoulder pain. I went through primary quite happily and enjoyed every minute. It's so good when practice is like that. Mari D and Supta K have to be the hardest asanas in the entire series. Quite a few people struggle with them, including myself. Tomorrow afternoon a lovely yoga teacher from the states is going to go through some technical things with a few of us. There are so many teachers here, I think the majority of people are. I love hearing how they came to do that, they all have colourful backgrounds.

I went shopping with Aj and spent a long time in Ashok bookstore where I got a textbook on Ayurveda. We wandered round the market and took in all the smells the hussle and bustle. A little boy selling dyes took my hand and drew a big flower in pink on my hand. Of course it won't wash off now.

Dr Nagaraj's Ayurveda classes are very inspiring, I want to learn more and more about this stuff. I'm sad that I can't take his yoga therapy course as that's what I'm ultimately interested in most of all. He practices asana and his other practices as he puts it. Interestingly his mother is a western style doctor, they have conflicting ideas sometimes! It seems to make increasingly more sense to me to use ayurveda. It works with the body not against it like a lot of western remedies do. It isn't however a quick fix.

Today's picture is of my space at Anu's, this is where I've been blogging from, and where I'm about to have some food...starving. And I hear Dr Navaraj's voice saying "Do not eat until your are full".

Tune of the Day: "I don't feel like dancing" - The Scissor Sisters (suggested by Amarjit)

Yogis go clubbing

No posts for 2 days, sorry about that but Mysore life can get quite busy sometimes!! I am alive and well, thanks for the concerned emails!

Friday consisted mostly of tabla class and then Ayurveda class (which is brilliant btw). In the evening I went to a little jam session organised by 2 guitarists. They called themselves "The innocence", it was a nice setting, someone's garden with candles, and flowers everywhere. A gang of little indian kids sat on the wall of the garden and cheered and wooped, which disturbed the ambience so they got told off a few times, and cleared off the wall, but they kept coming back. They were really sweet and seemed to really enjoy themselves as well. I think that they were great entertainement :)

After that we went to Planet X which is Mysore's only nightclub as far as I know. It is really cheesy, it was great. It has an egyptian theme, so all the waiters have egyptian costumes, hilarious. The serice was good though! The music was quite good and we all had a good boogie, it was refreshing actually, I also had a little beer as well, which was nice. Nothing over the top. But I am aware that some yogis got rather drunk! The indian kids there danced really well, a set of typical indian dances, it was very cool to watch, and made my jumping up and down nonsense seem rather lame! Still it was fun.

I'd love to DJ here, it would be such a lot of fun, there isn't any DJing going on in Mysore and it would give a little alternative to the other styles of music available such as kirtan, guitar solos, and those things. Don't get me wrong, I love going to those concerts, it's such a lot of fun and there are a lot of talented people around, especially Rew! I just think a little funky house, and some uplifting chillout wouldn't go amiss. Next time I'm bringing some records. My tabla teacher said he could arrange for decks and speakers and stuff to be rented for me and he can give me a practice place too. It'd be good to have the percussionists join in.

We left at 11pm and got home at 12. It felt like I'd been out untill 4am and drunk a shed load of beer. I had to get up at 6am to go to the tibetan settlements. I was pretty tired, I think I'm either getting very old or the yogic way of life here has done away with my ability to party a little. The settlements were beautifuk, we also went to the buddhist university and saw monks chanting and taking part in debates which involved a special set of hand movements as well. It was nice to get out of Mysore for a bit and get some fresh air. We went for a long walk round a big park and saw elephants, and nice wood carvings. The sceneray was green and very nice. We went to the Golden Temple which had some golden Buddhas inside and some very cool wall paintings. It's quite a long drive, about 2-3 hours each way. I slept for most of it because of my wild night out.

I've got a good group of friends here, good fun, non-pretentious down to earth people, who come from different places around the world, but we all have something in common other than just the Ashtanga. We've had a good time hanging out, I will miss them very much. With my planned move to the States though it is probable that I will see some of them again, and there are a few brits amongst us too. I was warned about pretentious yogis who are show-offs and like to feel important here, and I have to say that I have come accross a few, but there are a lot of nice people here. Everyone looks after each other. If you come here alone (or not for that matter) you won't have much trouble fitting in and meeting people.

I give the children chocolate from time to time instead of the money that they ask for, and now they come up to me and say "Chocolate please?". I have to keep stocking up, they're very sweet. The flower boy who hangs out near Anu's walks me home if I am walking alone and it's getting dark, he must be about 11. He likes Mars bars best.

Today led paractice was great, it's the first time in a week that I could do full primary because of my shoulder. It's much better now thanks to Alex's massages. I had a bit of a giggle with C who was practising next to me though, in Gaba Pindasana I knocked her over with my knee as she was getting her arms though her lotus, and then she wacked my thigh by accident which sent me spinning. Saraswathi looked over and shook her head. Guruji was on form today, it was a really good practice and he didn't have a micro-sleep during the count either! I can touch my hands in Supta Kurmasana, so it has come a long way since I first arrived and was about 20cm off.

There's conference later today and I'm off to the pool this afternoon for a well deserved rest, well by Mysore standards I have been very very busy. I got bitten by a dog on the way home from practice, nothing serious, just a scratch thanks to my jumper but he broke the skin. I was pretty suprised though it grabbed my arm and started biting down and I just thought "Oh no...it's biting me", not a very useful reaction, I didn't bat it off or anything, I'm rubbish!

(The picture is of the coconut stand which is the meeting point for everyone.)

Tune of the Day: "Beer drinkers and Hellraisers" - Motorhead (suggested by Jeff)

Content & itchy

Practice was much less painful than before, but I stopped around marichyasana D, because I started feeling the pain more strongly and so be it. I can't do the finishing postures because they particularly aggravate the shoulder. It is getting better though, no worries. Tomorrow I might be able to go further. Funny how ultimately it is my body telling me how far I can go rather than my teachers.

This is going to be my last week in Mysore. I'm quite sad to go, and yes, it has crossed my mind that I could quit my job and run, however...life is not so. I have had a blast here and I have met some incredible people. I have this feeling that I should be trying harder with the practice seeing this is the last week , but it feels just good where it is. I'm quite sure now that to practice Ashtanga for any length of time you have to be kind, patient and grateful. I love my practice, and I have become happier in it from being here.

I went to talk to Guruji because I wanted to know what he thought about me practising at 4-5pm in the evening in the UK as opposed to 5-6am in Mysore. He said that was just fine, no problem, I just have to have "breakfast, small small lunch, dinner". It's not good to practice in the cold but we don't have much choice in many countries. I told him I had experienced very good practice here, and he laughed and said he was very happy.

C has a stomach thing and feels crap. I gave her some GSE which many people here swear by and watched attentively until her face changed into a grimace. It tastes so bad it makes you forget how ill you are. The nasties in the belly go "Who would do that to themselves, she's a crazy lady let's get out of here!". There have been a few belly upsets recently. I'm still hearing people with shala cough too. Today a lot of people have been saying they are tired, it's muggy, it feels like it needs to rain or that it's going to.

As always I am battling with the mosquitos and whatever else bites round here, my feet and ankles are completely covered with bites, it looks like I have a nasty rash. I used "Jungle Fever" repellant and it has melted the silver finish on my laptop where my palm rests. I've switched to "Green Ban" which has been donated by a kind soul! Let's hope it works. I've found some stuff called "Pain Balm" that's a bit like tiger balm except that it smells of citrus, it works really well on itchies.

I had an interesting time at the "medical store". I needed a plaster and seemed to confuse everyone, even the americans until I saw what I wanted and read out "Band aid". One interesting moment where it's me speaking the strange language for once, never use the word "plaster". S had an indian man get her attention point at the sky and then down again and laugh, and this went on for a bit. Later she discovered that a bird had crapped on her bum.

Tune of the Day: "As serious as your life" - Four Tet

Some ayurvedic advice

No practice today, but the shoulder is much better, I can breathe without pain, and move reasonably well. I had another massage and am looking forward to tomorrow morning, back on the mat. Bodies are all different and all of them need a rest now and again, I know a few people taking time out right now, just a day or so. The practice is there to enrich life no make us a slave to it. With no practice I couldn't justify eating banana pancake this morning though!

Tabla class was loads of fun, it's hard because you really really need to concentrate and you need to be able to empty your mind and focus only on the rythm. I can do this only for a few minutes at a time. I am still trying to coordinate my mind, fingers and hands. Where you hit the drum matters very much, and with how many fingers, and how hard. Who knew having 2 hands 8 fingers and 2 thumbs could be such a headache! Practice makes me passable right now, which means that I need to practice a whole lot more. I might come and practice with Ganesh at some point.

Last night I was speaking to Anu and mentioned that I had really liked desert the night before. She took me to the kitchen and gave me a big bowl of it to take home. I feel utterly spoilt here. I have been eating Anu's food the whole time I've been here, it's wonderful, and she does a good cooking class. (btw I am not going to be sharing the bowl of desert I have in the fridge, so don't even ask).

Ayurveda class was excellent Dr Nagaraj is a very sweet man and is a fountain of knowledge. Today we looked at the 3 doshas and how things are diagnosed. Anything above the chest is kapha, in the middle of the body pitta, and at the bottom part of the body vata. A headache however is considered a vata problem, because it is pure pain, there can be no pain without vata. The lower abdomen is treated to remedy this using purging methods. Paralysis is also a vata problem he said. Anything diagnosed as Kapha is treated through vomiting, because certain methods make the badness gather in the stomach and it was then be flushed from the body. Vata things are treated through purging and pitta things can be cured using either vomiting or purging.

It was good to understand more about how best to live our days! Over-sleeping leads to too much Kapha, because Kapha is already present in the morning. To limit it we have to get up before sunrise. If you sleep in the morning, you mustn't eat, and sleeping in the day is a definate no-no as it also dulls hunger. We should only eat in the morning and at lunchtime, not in the evening, and definately no snacks, or caffeine. Chocolate is allowed but as part of your meal. People often complain of being tired after a meal, so he explained that if you're hungry before you eat you don't get tired, and you should never feel full. I have to say that the no-eating-dinner thing has really worked for me these last few weeks. He also says to not eat unless you are hungry. I've not done so well at that.

I went on a memorable scooter ride to get a new laptop bag (seeing as mine appears to not have a hope in hell of re-emerging from the tailors) and Violetta needed something too. We ended up in these tiny tiny little streets full of chickens, carts, cows, and people who like to just stand in the road and not move even though traffic is coming towards them. I like to call them coffin dodgers. There were an awful lot of potholes and things to avoid, but it was pretty amongst all the chaos and noise. Colourful saris, piles of strange and beautiful fruits, old bicycles, tiny shops selling just one item (just pots for example), little children in school uniform, rickshaws beeping madly and squeezing past, flowers on the wooden carts...My ankle slid along the edge of another scooter and just left a small red mark. For some reason it felt like rush hour in Mysore and it might well have been or perhaps the fact that I've been hidden away in leafy quiet Gokulam these past few days.

Tune of the Day: "I know what you want" - Mariah Carey & Busta Rhymes (suggested by Rasal)

Healing the ouch

This morning practice was hard because I still have a sore shoulder. I stopped early on because it hurt too much and I went straight to pranayama and savasana. It wasn't very nice, practising in pain is just a no-no. Alex gave me a deep heat shoulder massage and found the problem which is nerve related, which is cramping up the muscles or something like that. It was very good and helped me a lot, I can now turn my head at least. He has prescribed no practice tomorrow and another massage. I hate to miss practice tomorrow but then going would be asana and not going would be yoga. Sigh. He's right though.

Later on I had a reiki session (A gentle Japanese technique of laying on of hands to bring energy into the body for deep relaxation and a sense of well-being.) with Jackie, it was really really relaxing and enjoyable. She is a very calm and lovely lady. I'd never had reiki done to me before so it was another new experience, it made me thirsty and it heated up parts of my body. I recommend it for those seeking peace and quiet.

It is a lovely community here, you will always find someone willing to help you or heal you in some way. My treatments today were all out of the kindness of these people's hearts and they really helped. I don't have any particular treatment skills so I will be sending mix cd's to them from the UK. That's my therapy.

We went for lunch at the Green Leaf, which consisted of paneer tikka masala, sag paneer, samosa, rice and rotis. After that it's off to Ayurveda class. It's really interesting, and it always involves a good class discussion. It's so obvious that we are so conditioned to wester medicine. We had trouble understanding why you would take into account the spiritual disposition of someone when diagnosing them. We also didn't quite get the chanting and meditation which takes place as a cure for certain illnesses. This however is no different from some aspects of yoga philosophy and practice. Some in the class had very convincing arguments for this, having experienced the benefits themselves.

Tune of the Day: "Suddenly I see" - K.T Tunstal

Ayurveda & Tabla

The morning started with a lie in until 6:30am (moon day: no practice) when I just woke up, but I didn't want to waste this luxury lazing in bed moment so I listened to to tunes for a while. I met up with S at the coconut stand for breakfast, 2 coconuts and a good chat later I was running late for Tabla class.

Tabla class was cool, my teacher is brilliant. He plays brilliantly and he has a fantastic smile. We went through yesterday's lesson and then went through something new and rather complicated, I'm going to have to work on this one! I let him listen to Paul Simon on my ipod and he listened to all of it, banging away on the tabla. He loved it, and he had never heard of him before. I'll send him a cd from the UK. He says we can learn something to go with it before I leave. I have my own tabla now, they are cool, but they have a distinct smell, as they are made from some weird leather.

I went home and did some studying it was good, I felt like I'd done something really worthwhile and it helped me a lot. I have managed to get a lot done while I've been here, although being a type A personality does help as there are many distractions like napping and chatting mainly.

I had some lunch at Anu's and ate far too much as usual, but as my friend Rew says, you only live in this body once. She always has 3 bowls of desert, I had 2 today. Deserts are a bit like rice pudding with nuts and fruit in. The main meal is always beatroot, some cucumber, tomato and mint salad, chapattis, 2-3 different types of curry including Dhal, carrot salad, rice, some vegetables. All fresh and home cooked.

I sat and chatted with people after that for an hour or so, it's interesting to hear about other people's backgrounds, interests, and lives back home. There's a few I will definately stay in touch with when I leave. I've made some good friends here who have been very beneficial to me. It's actually very hard to be friendless in Mysore. You'd have to be incredibly anti-social to not make any friends.

There were 60 odd people at Rew's violin session, and Ganesh and another person joined her on drums it was fantastic and everyone had a really really good time. It's lovely to hear live music here. Anu was a great hostess as well.

I went to the Ayurveda class which was really really interesting. There is a clear link between that and yoga, although as Dr Nagaraj explained, Ayurveda is for the common man not the yogi. It is possible for the common man to reach Moksha. To be in good health you have to have Dharma (righteousness), Artha (earning money, material things), Kama (desires), Moksha (liberation - but for this one you also need Dharma). There was a long conversation about Karma as well at the end of the class. There's too much info to list here, but if you're interested drop me a line of get hold of me. Basically it's all about your intention. But it's much more complex than that though. I definately felt that I benefitted from going to the class, and I'm looking forward to tomorrow.

Tune of the Day: "The obvious child" - Paul Simon

On the seams

Today practice was good but I got there a bit late, it was 4:30am when I should have been there around 4am for the 5am practice. Because it's quieter, everyone fits in the main room, as before people were in the hall as well. I scanned the room for a bit and saw a little space between 2 people so I asked them to budge up a bit so I could fit in. The downside is that I was on the seams. The shala has big rugs laid out on the floor and they overlap so that they cover all of the floor and don't slip apart from each other. It doesn't make for a very stable surface to practice on though!

Today I got a lot of attention to say the least. Guruji came over to help with Hasta Padangusthasana, and then when we finished Supta Kurmasana I crossed my legs and prepared to sit out everything until backbends and finishing. He shouted "LEGS STRAIGHT!" at me and then "GABA PINDASANA!" (ok ok ok, I'm doing it, I'm doing it). Then he nodded at me at every posture so I ended up doing full primary. I did a very good Gaba Pindasana and Kukkutasana by my standards, and then the rest is pretty much ok. Bearing in mind that Sharath is stricter in where he stops people, I asked a senior practitioner about it. Apparently I have been moved on so I get on with it. I wasn't expecting this. Guruji knows what he's doing, so I'll get off my butt and do the full series. In Utplutee I told myself to not make eye contact with him but he picked me up on it anyway and said "UP! UP! UP!". Today was a challenge!

I rolled clumsily out of Chakrasana and ended up kicking the guy next to me in the shins and trapping a nerve or 2 in my shoulder so turning my head is quite sore now. I'm seeing the acupuncturist tomorrow for some treatment. Need to be nice and fresh and non-injured for tuesday's practice, tomorrow is moon day so day off.

Tabla class was good, I have loads of fun doing that. It's becoming quite challenging now and it's hard to remember the sequence, but he said "much practice and it comes". Just like Ashtanga, practice, practice, practice. It's good practice for sitting on the floor for an hour in half-lotus though. My drums are coming tomorrow, I'm quite excited!

We went to the zoo yesterday. I had that childish excitement at the prospect of seeing all the animals when I arrived! They have tigers, even a white one, gorillas, chimps baboons, crocodiles, otters, elephants, giraffes, leopards,..loads of beautiful animals. I felt sad at the end like I do after most zoo visits because the animals don't have much space in their cages, it feels wrong to see them behind bars. The rinoceros however isn't enclosed as there was but a small hedge between it and us. The little lady sat on the floor at entrance is worth approaching as she sells delicious roasted peanuts (still in their shells).

Today there is conference at 4:30pm and then R is giving a violin session at Anu's. That should be good.

I'm tired today. I'm doing phd work this afternoon and evening and then sleeping early. The weather is cooler, long-sleeve t-shirt cool. It rained heavily all night and in the morning yesterday.

I've had my name emboidered on my mat in kannada. It's a souvenir for me, a reminder of what I've learnt here when I practice back in the UK.

Tune of the Day: The Gayathri Dhyanam

Learning about the future

The astrology session was pretty interesting, and I suppose you can take it as you like. It's kinda up to you if you believe or not. Mine was all good so I choose to trust it! My struggling period is over, it's all smooth rolling from now on, lots of travel, moving to another country in fact a few. A family life with no disturbances, 2 children (!), success with my phd, a career change towards more holistic things. He knew what area I worked in, he told me what Mister R's job was and what posture he had, he told me the ntime we had already decided to get married in, and told me that I would never be rich but always comfortable. He also said that I would never be fat but very strong muscles in the years to come. I was suprised at the things he knew about my past and a few other things as well. He was a very frail looking little old man but with a lot of energy and he laughed and smiled throughout the whole consultation. He said that I would come back to Mysore after the Marriage. That's something that has been at the back of my mind for a little while.

The tabla class was excellent. I loved it, vbecause I found it very meditative. Once you've got the rythm it's chilled. The teacher is very friendly and very good at showing me what to do, he even offered to leave his drums with me to practice on till tomorrow if I wanted them. I didn't want to because I was worried that something might happen to them. I agreed to buy some though at 3500rs, they come complete with travel bag which is handy. I buy the practice books and practice at home as well. I think that this is somthing that I would carry on doing and anyway it's a nice souvenir as well. Tomorrow 9am, the second lesson takes place. It'll have to be a quick breakfast after practice. One of the hard parts of the tabla class is stitting in half-lotus for 45mins. I had to keep swapping sides and got a numb foot.

The ayurvedic medecine class starts at 3pm. That'll be good. It leaves me time for a nap and also some studying which is good. I'm happy to do that, my days are interesting and fun.

No practice today as it's saturday, rest day. It's a little bit more chilled out here without Sharath, it is being said that people are going further than they would usually be allowed to. While waiting I've seen some people struggling early on and going on. I suppose it's different for everyone though. Sharath seems to be the very strict one.

I might venture to the zoo later on. It'll be a nice little wander around for a quiet afternoon. I've been bad and not studied for the past 3 days...I'd better get my bum in gear. I've just had a nap after tabla class and a meal at Anu's. Correction...a banquet at Anu's. It's all very healthy food but I tend to overdo it a bit. Mind you my eating patterns have changed here. I have a good breakfast and a good lunch and no dinner. Practice is better this way, and I really never go hungry.

There are so many americans here that I'm starting to think with an american accent. I'm still speaking normally though! Quite a few people have never been out of their country before and this is the first time, a few others have travelled around a bit and some others have only been to India. It's quite diverse, but this might explain why everyone has a different kind of experience or similar ones.

Yesterday the massage was very good. Not for the prudish though as it's completely naked. She recited a mantra before the massage and before touching my stomach and before touching my feet and head. It was vigorous. I said I was tired before we started, and felt really low on energy. After that I was full of life. She got everything flowing again and seemed to have swept away any negativity. She also did some "technical strokes" on my shoulder. It feels better today, so it has worked. I have a thai massage tomorrow with C. That should be quite good as well, I've never had that done either. I really seem to be doing new things here.

It is a life changing experience but not an excessively dramatic one. It's opening me up to a lot more things and it's shown me that practice doesn't have to be pretty necessarily but therapeutic rather. A bit like going to the osteopath for treatment or something. It's a healing practice and a fun one as well. Ashtangis tend to get very serious about their practice. This has shown me that it doesn't have to be like that. I've met some people who I think I will stay in touch with when I'm home again as well.

Ho-hum....that's it for today really. Just chilling, eating and learning. The photo is from a temple I visited. People sitting in silence together.

Tune of the Day: "I saw her again last night" - The mama's and the papa's (I woke up singing it in my head)

Trying out new things

This morning practice was harder than usual. If you've ever surfed or bodyboarded or windsurfed or something like that on a regular basis you might understand. It's that sudden realisation when you're in the sea that this is actually quite dangerous! I suddenly got the realisation this morning that this practice is actually quite hard. Saraswathi smiled at me a few times with compassion I think! In Utpluthee Guruji shouted "HEAD UP!". And then again "HEAD UP!!!". I looked up at him and realised he was speaking just to me. He doesn't miss a thing, I was in the front row though, not far off from his feet. I told Saraswathi my shoulder was hurting inside in Supta Kurmasana. She said "Good! Correct position is coming. Supta Kurmasana is coming!". Good to know I'm making progress, even though I'm suffering a bit.

I went to see R again after breakfast and listened to another violin solo or two. It was really cool as it was last time. She made C cry it was so powerful. I'm very glad to have met her, she is wonderful. It is really helping me reconnect with DJing actually which is something I stepped away from before coming here. I'm looking forward to buying some records and recording again (promise I'll keep it down Mister R!).

Infor for those in Mysore right now: R is giving a free concert sunday at Anu's after conference if there is one or else at 4pm. Come along!

I went back to Meenas and got a few silver gifts for the family back home, it was nice to see her, she made chai which is the best in town, and chatted happily with me and R. I like her she is very sweet.

I went to Chakra house to check out some of the courses on offer and ended up booking a session with the astrologer for tomorrow morning 9am. This is unusual for me because I'm not a firm believer in this and slightly apprehensive, but I thought trying something new wouldn't hurt and it might be interesting. I believe that you shouldn't have an opinion on something unless you've tried it. I also booked tabla classes as well, a set of 10. They start tomorrow after the astrology session. I love percussions so this should be good. I have also booked myself in for an ayurvedic course as well which is 1-2 hours every day. I'm glad I didn't choose to do the time consuming massage course now. I also have time to do some work as well.

I took a rickshaw to Chakra house because I was short on time and it turned out that I didn't have any change so I gave him 50rs instead of 12rs. He said he'd wait but I said no, I would be a while. When I came out, there he was. I told him that I couldn't take the rickshaw back because I had no change, only 500rs. He said to jump in and that he wanted no money, I had paid too much. This is a good example of indian people, they are not all out to rip you off, a lot of them are very kind, friendly and honest.

There is a little girl who must be about 6 years old whith her little sister of about 18 months or so in arm, and another little sister with her younger still. They have this horrible monkey who runs about them, I'm a bit scared of it. They try and get money from yoga students by saying that it's for hanuman. They are obviously homeless street kids (or maybe not but that's my take on things). I never give money because they hassle constantly which gets your back up, but then I remembered that they were little children. I regularly give chocolate bars and lollys now. They are so happy to get sweets, I'd rather give that than money, who knows where the money goes, at least they are having some pleasure as little children should.

I went to the post-office to send some postcards and a card, and after buying the stamps at the booth I was informed that there was no gum on the stamps. She sent me off to a back room where a man was filing post, and he sent me outside where there was a table covered in newspaper and a pot of glue. I had to glue each stamp on myself. There's a first for everything!

In an hour I have an hours worth of ayurvedic massage with an ayurvedic nurse in my room for 400rs (!). After that I'm off with the gang to Sandias for dinner and than planet x the local club. I might have a beer actually, I don't miss it, but it would be nice anyway.

(Cows roam the streets happily here as they are auspicious, and they rule the roads!)

Tune of the Day: "I will survive" Gloria Gaynor (suggested by Rachel battling the shala cold)

Back in the Shala

It felt good to be back in the Shala this morning. Many people have left already and a lot of people have come down with the "Mysore yoga student cold", even Anu. There are lots of spots free to put your mat down in the main room , and there is no queue for practice. When "one more" is called sometimes nobody comes. It also isn't as hot at the moment. I finished in the main room because there was a lot of space. Saraswathi knows when I'm getting to Supta Kurmasana and she comes over and wrenches my hands together and then my feet and then she presses hard on my back. It's quite strong, there's always a quiet moment of panic here for a split second. No reason for it, it just is. Dropbacks were good but I couldn't get back up again, cemented to the ground. "Walk" she says, meaning walk your hands closer to your feet. Eventually she pulled me up, she is one strong lady. The forward bend after was heavenly.

Breakfast at Shakti's was good, porridge with cinnamon. It's good to catch up with everyone and talk about the day ahead. The most common questions I have been asked here are :
"what's your name?", "where are you from?", "where are you staying", "what are you doing for lunch/breakfast?", "do you want to come with us to x". I've not been asked about my practice, where I stop, how long I've been practicing, who my teachers are, what injuries I have, etc... The practice happens first thing in the morning, and then it is over for the day. Those I have met practice and move on rather than spend all their time talking about it. Sure there'll be the odd chitchat but no conversation has revolved around it since I've been here. There is a LOT of talk about food though!

I've decided to not do the massage course in the end because it is going to take up all day every day until I leave. My new buddies don't want me to go AWOL and I think there's some other stuff I'd like to do like drumming for example, and a few field trips. I will of course book myself in for a few massages though. There's a few things I want to go and explore as well in the city as well. Anu is giving a cooking lesson right now accross the room, it smells good. I didn't want to take part, I've had enough cooking lessons recently.

This afternoon a trip to the lake is planned but it looks like it's going to rain so we might try the cinema again! This evening there is a concert at Tina's which everyone is going to. It should be fun, I'm looking forward to it. I am now also going to sort out a few things that I want to do, cool.

Tune of the Day: "Peacock tail" - Boards of Canada

Pimp my ride

The afternoon didn't quite go to plan. Instead of going to the gardens we ended up in the local ashram bookshop and wandering the endless little streets of Mysore with all it's tiny shops selling all sorts of bits and pieces. The bookshop sells a lot of devotional books, chanting cd's, prints of different swamis and that sort of thing. I got a vibrant orange OM sticker for my desk at work, but I didn't get any books. C managed to get a very kitsch Ganesha in vibrant colours, very tasteful.

We went to the dvd shop and became members by giving the little man 500rs deposit and we got 2 girly dvd's to watch in the evening. It was fun although the film was rubbish "in her shoes" or something like that. It's nice to chillout with friends in the evening and get an early night.

There are rickshaw drivers who drive around with loud music booming out, some kind of indian dance music. It goes to show that this happens all over the world, people sup up their rides and cruise the town.

We wandered round the city centre today jumping in and out of little stalls and shops, looking at trinkets and such things. I waited patiently until we got to the bookshop which on the top floor of a silk merchants shop. There was a shelf of Bihar books there. I love those books, they are so well written, and everything is clearly expressed. I got the one on Surya Namaskara, Yoga Nidra and a few others as well. There are pretty expensive in the UK, and here I paid 100rs each on average.

I was taking photos of the people in the market and a little lady sat on the floor selling oranges motioned for me to take a photo of her. I took her picture and showed her it on the little screen, she held the camera and passed it on to the man next to her and he passed it on again for the other peson to see so I started thinking "oh god, am i going to get my camera back?" It came back to me and she asked me to take a photo of her little son who was also selling oranges so I did, he was embaressed and smiled. She then asked if I wanted to sit on her bench and have a photo together. After this I thanked her and walked off, and suddenly felt nice inside because she had been so friendly and had never tried to sell me anything or ask for any money. I went back and gave her some money which she refused, but after some time finally accepted.

There are a lot of people in this country who will be friendly to you and helpful, India has a big heart. There are of course those who will try and rip you off, but it's important to remember that not everyone here is out to cheat you. Some come up to you and ask your name and where you're from as a chance to then sell you something, but equally as often it has been to practice their english or just to say "hi".

Today I didn't practice, ladies holiday (last day). I have had several discussions with people about whether you should or shouldn't practice. The majority of those who I have spoken to agree that if you are going to do what Guruji tells you then why not respect this also? They also mention that the prana is pointing downwards at this time and that mulabandha forces it up. On another note, when you are bloated and tender it isn't very comfortable to bend yourself into funny positions, so a couple of days off is just fine. As I thought about going to practice or not this morning I decided that it would be asana to go and yoga to refrain. It fires up the love of the practice because after time off I can't wait for tomorrow to practice again.

I went round R's place, she is a violinist in real life (not mysore life), and she played me a piece from Bach. I love Bach and she is truly gifted. She has an old battered violin here to play on but the sound she made come out of there was phenomenal. It's one of those moments when everything else falls away and there's just her and this incredible playing. I'm going to go round again, the deal is that I get to hear her play and then I make her a mix when i get back to the uk and send it through to her. Music here isn't a big thing really, shops don't play any, we don't listen to the radio, no TV,....nobody talks about it or maybe I haven't been paying attention. I've shared the music i have with me though, mp3's are easy to swap.

I am at Anu's feeling a bit full after having 2 bowls of almond and raisin desert for dinner. I didn't feel like dinner after the food we had at lunch time. The place we went to does Thalis so I had one. I'm not a huge fan of these dishes and I only actually liked 2 out of the 12 little bowls but the chappattis were very good. Desert was a leaf rolled up containing some sugar, and some herbs and spices I think, it was brown and tasted of soap. No one liked this one, although everyone else enjoyed all of the dishes apart from J who is nursing a sore belly.

Tomorrow...practice....bring it on :)

Tune of the Day: "The painter" - Neil Young (suggested by Sylvie)

12 hours in dream land

I missed practice due to ladie's holiday and quite frankly being totally knackered from the cold and the anti-biotics. I slept 12 hours straight. Violetta and C came to wake me up for breakfast so I had pancakes and fruit salad, all delish. It's funny I have eaten so much here but my combats are looser than when I arrived. It must be due to all the healthy food (apart from the pancakes of course and Anu's chocolate pie and deserts).

I then went and did a few hours Phd work, which was very productive, I'm getting somewhere. At some point I have a chat with my advisor through skype about it all. I'm glad I've done quite a bit this last week.

Yesterday afternoon consisted of chilling out mostly chatting and drinking chai, having a chat online with friends in the UK and elsewhere, relaxing. This afternoon we're off to the reservoir and the fountain gardens. It should be nice. I won't get a great deal of time to do much sightseeing after the 16th as the massage course starts and it's pretty intensive and time consuming. I'm glad I'm doing it though, it'll be really interesting and it's a skill which is nice to have, you can use it on your tired and stressed out friends and family.

Everything is relaxed here, apart from Krista who had her laptop stolen and someone appear in her room in the night. That's really really bad, I feel for her. If you're reading Krista, come and use my laptop at Anu's whenever you need to. It feels pretty safe here, but like everywhere in the world, you have to be careful.

Everyone I've spoken to seems to be taking some kind of class, usually several. I've happy to do the massage course as it's a different way of working for me, using my hands and my body rather than exclusively my head all the time. I don't want to sit in sutra class or sanskrit or something, I do enough studying at home.

Tune of the Day: "Glow" - Nelly Furtado (suggested by Jody)

Conference with Guruji

Conference was really good. Guruji sat in his chair on the elevated platform (I don't think it's big or high enough to call it a stage), and sat silently smiling at us, waiting for a question. No one asked one so he turned to violetta who was sat in the front with me and said "You! You have a question". She told him 2 days earlier that she had something to ask. Not a bad memory there. She asked whether everyone could do every single asana or if some people would just never be able to do some of them. He answered "Everybody asana, everybody". So no excuses people! He went on to talk about food and said that we should not eat fish because it creates excess fat in the body, that we should eat breakfast, lunch and no dinner. We should drink 1 litre of milk and ghee everyday. He recommended a fully vegetarian diet. He said that we should eat when we are happy I think, rather than stressed or something. We should think good thoughts, do good things, think god and we will be happy. He said that each man is given 100 years to live but it is possible to live even up to 200 if you live right.

He looked at Violetta during the whole time he spoke as if he was speaking only to her. He likes her because she is lively and cheeky around him. Guruji seems to like being treated like everyone else rather than some kind of deity or something. He's a lovely old man with a great big heart and he likes to have a good laugh as well.

One person asked about loud breathing during practice. He couldn't hear what he was asking so a few people repeated it to him louder and louder until he heard properly. He answered that the breath is very very important, that asana was secondary. In fact asana is just the foundation of yoga, it isn't yoga. The people at the back didn't hear properly and so he shouted out "breath very important!" and then laughed, we all did. he has an excellent sense of humour.

We had decided to go to the cinema to see a bollywood film, but when the rickshaw pulled up outside there was a massive queue that went round the cinema. All single men stood in a tight line...no thanks, that's just scary business none of us wanted to be in that kind of situation. Instead we went to see the palace be lit up. Every sunday they switch all the lights on and it looks beautiful. There was a military band playing music and of course lots of people trying to sell you things, flutes, wooden carvings,...you have to be firm with them, they go away then. Otherwise they'll trail you everywhere you go.

The evening was quiet, I had a bowl of cereal and went to sleep, exhausted, too tired even to write a postcard.

Today I practiced but it is my time to have 3 days off now, but I usually do 1 or 2. I respect this because I think Guruji knows better than me and so do the senior teachers, but I guess it's different for everyone. Guruji was right...1 week. I managed to touch my fingers for the bind in Supta Kurmasana. That's more progress in a week than I have had in endless months. I was a bit like "aaawwww...I feel like doing more now because I'm having loads of fun". Still I went straight to the finishing room.

This morning was surpisingly busy, I have run out of t-shirts I didn't bring nearly enough, so I went downtown with Violetta on the scooter. I trust her driving just I don't trust all the other people using the road. I found a shop selling cool t-shirts and I went to buy a shawl. Because of the pollution it's good to shield yout face sometimes, and in the morning too. Anu says you should avoid breathing in the morning mist. After being ill I'll listen to any advice. Violetta got a dress made which is lovely and picked up some very nice material to use as a blanket in Savasana. We went to Lakshmipuram for lunch at Sandia's who is a little indian lady who opens up her house for yoga students to come and eat. It's like stepping into the past, the little house is humble and clean and her food is amazing.

A combination of things makes the yoga particularly good here. Eating very healthily, sleeping well, no stress from work, no alcohol, and the heat. I love it here and I feel good and relaxed but I think this isn't easy to reproduce in the UK. I am taking Guruji's advice and eating a good breakfast and a good lunch and skipping dinner apart from milk. This would be difficult at home for example because the evening meal is the only time I have with Mister R.

I have signed up for Kumar's ayurvedic massage course. 14 days intensive, 10-5pm. That'll keep me busy and I've always wanted to do this. There is zilch to do in Mysore really (on a daily basis) so taking lots of classes like sanskrit, chanting, hindi lessons, drumming, sutra, etc... is a popular choice. As well as having lots of massages of course. Ho-hum...isn't life hard :)

Tune of the Day: "When you were young" - The Killers (suggested by Sonia)

Chamundeswari temple

Chamundeswari temple was quite an experience. You have to walk up loads and loads and loads of steps which are pretty steep as well. There were monkeys in the trees and lovers every so often on a date. It was hard!!! We were really sweaty once we got to the top. A statue of Nandi the bull is available for worship, you (obviously) have to pay a few rupies and you are given some flowers and a piece of scrunched up paper. You hand it over to the Brahmin and he pours a small ladle of yellow water in your hand for you to drink and touch your head with, and touches your 3rd eye with red powder. I was careful to not actually drink the water though. Another few hundred steps and we got to the top, and as I predicted there were loads of stalls selling tat, and little boys asking for money or a "school pen". I had some sweets so I gave them that and a highlighter pen. There was Puja, so we stood in line and recieved our blessing with everyone else.

The walk down from the temple was a nightmare...we suddenly noticed that there were enormous and I mean enormous spider webs above our heads with huge (really huge, like 4 inches long) black and white spiders hanging from them. The monkeys were jumping on the tree branches making them fall. My knees were shaking, and I turned into a complete girl. To make matters worse we were attcked by a monkey who wanted to steal C's water bottle. When it comes to "fight or flight" it appears that I fly. I turned suddenly and fell over the step much to everyone's amusement! We managed to descend by walking behind a family who looked non-plussed by the whole thing.

The evening was pretty chilled, I had dinner at Anu's with Violetta and caught up on the world, chatting with fellow yogis and with the UK via Gmail.

There was led practice today. We turned by 30mins early as there is always a rush on sundays as everyone comes at the same time as opposed to staggered from 5-6:30am. I placed my mat near the ladies room, and then Saraswathi came and sat on the little ledge next to me. This meant that she was able to keep a better eye on me! She helped out in Utthita Hasta pandangustasana by holding my foot, raising it higher, but she also did this adjustment to my neighbour at the same time so it was a little unstable, especially as the leg came out to the side! Then she came and tugged my arms to enable me to bind in Marichyasana D, and then she came over for the Supta Kurmasana adjustment. I thought these were pretty good, they did the job anyway. It's certainly a rigorous touch though. When we were in shoulderstand Guruji mumbled "oh my god", which made everyone chuckle. He always says "6" in a really excited way as if it's the last count, or something is about to happen and then it evens out again and he continues with "7".

Once I got back I crashed out and slept for 3 hours, I am shattered today, this cold is catching up with me. Violetta and C came by to ask me to come to the pool with them at the Southern Star. I might go and join them a little later on, I want to have some lunch as I skipped breakfast, I wasn't hungry. There is conference at 4:30 at the Shala today so I want to go along.

This photo is of little children who wanted Violetta to take a picture, they like seeing themselves on the little screen. They're beautiful. I haven't seen a miserable little child yet, however poor they seem. Some do appear to have grown up quickly though as they are already very savvy business men/women.

Tune of the Day: "God only knows" - The Beach Boys (suggested by Jeff)

Record shopping

I woke up coughing painfully, my chest hurt everytime. I decided to go to the hospital because it appears that this cough is just getting worse and worse. It's just a few doors down so I walked in and a lady ushered me into an office and listened to my chest, gave me a prescription for cough syrup and some tablets. It cost me 100rs for the consultation and 61rs for the meds. The hospital I went to was pretty old inside, wouldn't want to have to stay there. I saw Anu later and she insisted Ganesh take me to their doctor. I have some antibiotics which are unavoidable although as Ganesh says "they will make the body weak".

I went on the search for the record shop with Violetta and Ahu. We found a cd shop and the man inside told us to go and find the hearing aid shop. We went there and he sent his son or assisstant with us in rickshaw. We drove for a while and came to a house where she motioned for us to get out and follow him up the steps. He unlocked this door and told us to wait inside while he fetched the records. He opened another door which seemed to lead into a room full of the kind all sorts of random stuff like old signs, a load of strip lights, an old radio, dusty cardboard boxes....He proceeded to shift everything out into the corridor for some time and then finally called us in. He had a load of old Indian music vinyl, with some amazing covers with all the gods and godesses brightly coloured, mostly devotional music. I took 3 off him for 300rs, he seemed disapointed, but I was never going to buy 300. It's the most interesting record shop I have ever been to. I would call it a house but they insisted it was a shop.

Last night was kirtan at Shakti house. Ganesh was on percussions. It was for a charity, and it was nice tocome together to do something for others. It was my first kirtan and I really enjoyed it, it was very calming and friendly. I sat next to Anu in her beautiful red and gold sari. She reminded me to come for vile tea again and said she would make it very concentrated this time. She has kept her word and here I am, it is a challenge drinking this.

No practice today. Instead breakfast at the Southern Star. It's a hotel nearby which serves up a buffet breakfast, indian, continental, american food. The banana bread was great. Otherwise I prefer breakfast at Tina's and at Shakti by far. It's pricey and it's alright, but hey, nothing special. I don't think I'll bother with it again.

No lunch today, I am going to explode if I eat again. I was told this week that I was a "strong little ashtangi" - I think this is fast turning into a "tubby litte ashtangi". All I've done here is eat! Interestingly it has been suggested that my intolerance of peppers is due to my vata nature, as I'm pitta-vata. Maybe so. I should find out more about the doshas.

This afternoon, we're off to Chamundeswari temple, 13k out of Mysore.

The picture is of Tina's place.

Tune of the Day: "Bongo bong" - Manu Chau (suggested by Nico)

Led practice

Today's led practice was really really cool. It's fast! At first I had trouble keeping the breath going because of the pace, but I soon understood that the count wasn't probably the breath count, but just the count. Maybe you do just have 2 breaths in the posture, but that's cool. He fell asleep a few times so it was a suprise at times! In Urdhva Dhanurasana he counted 1....2....3....4 ... .... .... .... ... 1...2...3...4...5. And after 3 backbends he said "von more". So we ended up doing 4, my arms were shaking. He also says "loose your feet", which means "point your feet". I enjoyed it, it was a real treat. The hug at the end and the kiss and the wonderful smile rounds it off so nicely I will miss that loads! It sends you outside feeling like this is a good world. And then the coconut man smiles too :)

I got the shakes after headstand, my teeth were chattering even. I haven't been drinking enough, it's dehydration apparently. I'm on the water today, lots of it. It's not too bad now.

I went to Tina's for a cooking lesson, yes you read right, a cooking lesson. I was hoping she might be able to work miricales and enable me to cook something which doesn't make people feel like they have to be polite about it. I learnt a few things and had an great meal afterwards. Her english is better than mine by far.

Ganesh gave us some directions to record shops in the area and a list of cool indian artists from the 60's till today. We're going on a mission tomorrow (with Violetta), she loves tunes as well which is great. We're at Anu's listening to tunes on the laptops and emailing, blogging and all that good stuff. It's sad though because today a worker was hit by power lines that fell on him, so the Gokulam saftey measure is to turn off the power in the area. It came on for a bit and then switched off again. Now it seems to be back.

Yesterday I went with Ahu to the city and got Indian sweets and visited the market. It was refreshing to get out and about and we had a good time. We had peppermint tea and tasted the sweets. Yuk, not my thing! Spicy and sweet, curry spicy. Not again.

I went to Meena's to see her silverware, she sat me in her office in her house and got out tubs and tubs and tubs of bracelets, toe rings, earings, I couldn't get away, this went on for 1.5hrs! And she made me a cup of vile tea, the same that I had had at Anu's. Anu gave me another cup this morning. The good news is that it has worked my throat is much better. The ladies of Mysore have looked after me very well.

I learnt something today from Tina, she says that Saraswati the goddess of knowledge is on your tongue for a very short time once a day so you must be careful what you say. She says for example you could say "I wish that man would just go away" and the next day he's dead.

I miss Mister R a lot and I miss all you people back home, but at the same time I am well in Mysore. I'm not ecstatic, excited or low or overwhelmed, or anything I'm just well.

I think I will sign up for Kumar's ayurvedic massage course, it's very intensive and you cover so much in 14 days. I've always wanted to do that so it seems like a good idea.

Tune of the Day: "Loopdreams" - AIM

Quietly raining

It has rained a lot today and through the night, the kind of rain that steadily drenches you right through. I walked to practice this morning arriving with wet hair and fairly damp. Everyone else looked a little humid too.

Yesterday I met up with Ahu and had tea and a chat, we then wandered over to the pharmacy so she could get ear plugs (her place is very noisy) and so I could get something for my throat. The "chemist" was about 15 or so and tried to sell me weird pills. I managed to get some cough sirup which is rubbish and hasn't soothed anything at all.

Anu has just made me a tea with tumeric, ginger, honey and something bloody spicy in it, even though her kitchen is closed today. It's buring the badness away I think, in anycase...I'm on fire! It was very very sweet of her to do that for me, I really do appreciate it, she's cool.

I chilled with the Shakti girls in the evening and my housemates and it was cool. The picture is of the kitchen at the Shakti Inn in the morning - it's busy and friendly and full of lovely smells and food. The pancakes are awesome.

The same people are at the shala every morning waiting to go into the practice room with me. I always finish at the same time as V so we have a coconut outside, it's a nice part of the day. There is a routine building. Practice was nice, chilled. My breathing was a bit laboured sometimes because of my dry throat, and my nose is a little blocked up too. I like the energy in the room and the change of pace in the ladies for finishing afterwards.

I went to Tina's for breakfast. She is a lady who opens her house to yoga students for breakfast. A few of us met up there and had dosas (like pancakes), scrambled egg and spinach, tomato chutney and chai. It is true that she never forgets your name. It was wondeful food and so welcome, I was hungry.

Gokulam is very quiet today, the rain seems to have brought peace with it. The yoga students are probably all chilling out at home. Anu's is almost deserted.

Tune of the Day: "People power in the disco hour" - Clinton

Practice is fun

I sorted the bank thing out after calling fraud prevention. Phew that was a relief, I was able to pay the rest of my fees.

I went to the shala and saw Guruji to give the remaining money. He had a chat with me, I said Supta Kurmasana was very hard and he replied "Are you breathing correctly? When breathing correctly circulation is coming, warming the body, then flexibility is coming. One week, it is coming." I doubt very much that one week will do it, but hey I'll keep the faith. He has the best smile ever.

I was told about a conference he did at the Shala where someone asked "What do we do to work through the pain", he asked "where is the pain", she said "In my shoulders". He laughed and asked if she was married, when she said "no" he said "When you are married the pain in the shoulders will go".

Yesterday I went to the palace as well, it was beautiful and quite an experience. I was a bit worried about having to leave my camera at a special booth for 5rs. Cameras were strictly forbidden, they checked your bag. I also had to leave my shoes, and in one place a few years ago I had to buy them back after my visit to a temple, so I'm always a bit uncomfortable with that. I walked around the palace following the tour marked out by the ropes. It wasn't always comfortable as parts has pebbled and cobble stones to walk on. I did wonder about verrucas and foot fungus while I followed the large group around but decided to forget about it for now because I couldn't do anything about it. I got my shoes back from the big pile and also my camera intact. It was worth the visit. I've included a photo of the outside of the palace.

Practice today was brilliant, i had such a good time. It was hot and sweaty, just how I like it. It's good to practice with everyone else, good energy. Sharath came to help in the current challenge I face Supta Kurmasana, and we had a giggle because there is no way that my feet are going behind my head! But my hands bind which is a start I guess. Finishing is always really nice too, the ladies is quite a contrast to the main practice room, quiet, dimly lit, chilled, cooler. I'm much bendier here, it's hot which is a great help, my back feels open and good.

Afterwards I went to give my respects to Guruji. I have debated this for quite a long time. Why would you go and touch someone's feet? In India is is customary to do this sort of thing, it's a cultural difference to us westerners I guess. This justified doing it for me, I bow in China and South-Korea afterall, and respect those customs, why not here? I'm really glad that I did. After touching his feet he kissed me and gave me a enormous hug and a vibrant smile. "All is coming, all is coming".

This morning I did 3 hours of work after the coconut and breakfast, and then wandered off to the Green Leaf Food Hall for lunch. I had a huge Thali and a soup for 82rs, it's really very cheap here. Next I have to find the pharmacy where babu is expecting me. I have a sore throat, Ganesh says it's because it is chilly in the morning when I walk to practice. He says I should wear a woolly hat. Unsuprisingly I didn't pack one.

Tune of the Day: "Sunday morning" - The Velvet Underground

Good practice - crappy bank

Last night I went for dinner round Jake's, his mother is lovely and I ate very well. He russled up a stir fry of vegetables in a fresh lime and coriander sauce. Great stuff, the man can cook! It rained a lot yesterday evening and during the night, I need to buy an umbrella from somewhere.

I registered yesterday and it was easy and chilled. Pattabhi Jois handed me the form to complete, stuck my photo to it and did all this slowly. I told him I had injuries, he asked me where, and then he said "we do slowly slowly".

I could only give Rs10000 because the cash point caused me some problems and wouldn't give me anymore money than that. He was very understanding and said "Tomorrow". This is a good piece of advice before you come here, make sure you tell your bank at least 3 times that you are going away with your credit card to India. It turns out mine thinks my card has been stolen and so have blocked it, including access to my regular bank account. I TOLD them I was coming here before I left so I am very very angry with them. I'm going to call from Rishis at 2pm which is when the banks open in the UK. Apparently this has happened to lots of people here. The HSBC branch here in Mysore is useless, they have no idea what the problem is even though I told them I had plenty of credit so could they find out what was wrong. They kept repeating that I have to call the UK, so I asked to make the call and they sent me off to call from elsewhere. I am pretty unsatisfied to say the least, so much for the "worldwide bank". This happened to me when I was in China as well.

Today was my first practice. The shala was packed but quite calm. There weren't a lot of people waiting to go in when I arrived and it was all very stress free. "One more" and then you go to the ladies, leave your stuff, place your mat where you'd shown and start. The mats are close together so it's necessary to be conscious of those around you and modify to avoid slapping them. As I looked up in Prasarita Padottanasana B I found my nose directly in my neighbour's armpit. I didn't get an adjustment and I didn't actually get any direction or comments either. I just got on with it. When I got to Supta Kurmasana I waited for Sharath to come over and asked him if I should stop now because I couldn't do the pose. He said "Oh yes, you can stop now". So I went to the finishing room which is the ladies changing room to do the finishing postures. It is dimly light by the natural light through the window and quiet. There was someone chanting in the building which was beautiful, and someone quietly chanted the closing chant next to me. I sweated like a beast but it was good. The coconut afterwards was good too, and meeting/catching up with some people around the stand is a nice way to re-emerge into the real world.

I've come to Anu's to wait for 2pm and to have lunch. When I got here Ganesh said I was stressed and I could chillout here. He went off to get me a smoothies of banana, chocolate and peanut butter. It's delicious but it might have spolit my lunch now! Anu sells ghee jars of peanut butter which is great, I might bring some back.

I'm going to try and eat some lunch, and then go and call the bank. Hopefully it will be swiftly resolved. Then I'm going to go and pay the rest of my fees and go back to Shakti to read some papers and catch up on some sleep. I honestly don't think that I'll need dinner. It's very true that here you will eat so very much, and everything tastes fantastic. It's so friendly and you bump into many faces from different studios back home, everyone remembers you from one day to the next and everyone seems game for a chat.

Tune of the Day: "Passion" - Nightmares on Wax

Loyal World and meeting people

This morning I woke up at 6am. I woken in the night by the number of weird moth-like things trying to get in through the window and I think it rained as well. I lazed around in bed till 8 and then went to get some breakfast. I had the biggest pancake I have ever had in my entire life. It was cool to stick around and eat in the kitchen, it's busy and friendly in there. I then braved a trip to the supermarket.

Loyal world is just near the only traffic lights in the whole of Gokulam. It's 20mins away from the Shakti Inn and the roads are dusty, uneven and full of unorganised traffic and little shops selling all sorts. 2 little girls walked with me a little of the way asking my name, and some other things I didn't understand. I made up answers and they smiled. Then they asked me for pisas, and then biscuits. The universal sign language of "money" helped me understand they weren't after a sugary snack!. Loyal World is pretty chilled out if rather disorganised. I got musli, oats, and some milk. They have a lot of western products too, I found marmite even and fructis shampoo.

I managed to read a computing paper when I got back and have a nap for half an hour, I'm still pretty tired. I also discovered a trail of ants leading to an opened cereal bar from last night. I wiped them away with face wipes and they haven't come back for now. I wonder if karma includes tiny ants. If it does I'm in trouble I killed loads.

Everyone is very friendly here and you feel immediately integrated and welcomed. I just met ashtanga yogini who happened to be sat in front of me at Anu's where I'm blogging from right now. She urged me to submit my blog to Ashtangi.net because every experience is important to those looking for info. I also met Jake who is a friends brother who I was in touch with before coming here. I'm going round his for dinner and tea tonight. The community is small is friendly. I don't think it's very hard to get sorted here, everyone is so helpful and bends over backwards for you, which is easy for them because they are ashtangis :)

My funny line of the day was found on a billboard "Everytime is egg time!" - I have seen at least 2 piles hospitals since I have been here, I imagine that it must be a problem round here.

I'm going to register at the shala in a few hours and buy a practice rug also. My body is a bit stiff and my lower back needs a stretch out. I have a tickly cough which I hope is going to go away soon. Overall, things are good and I'm slowing down the pace to almost standstill, which seems to be the norm here. Going home afterwards might be a bit of a shock. I don't miss work.

I have photos to share but I forgot my wire so it'll have to be for tomorrow.

Tune of the day: "Barcelona" - Tommy Hools

I'm here

And so here I am.

The flight from London to Bangalore wasn't great, but it wasn't bad either. An indian family had been split apart by accident, so one half was shouting over to the other half accross the plane. One of the ladies consistently sat on my arm rest (aisle seat) as well, and generally they were a bit of a pain. I have no idea what they were discussing but it sounded like very enthusistic football commentating.

I got to Bangalore hazy and tired, managed to get my luggage or rather prise it out of the hands of a tiny little airport attendant who was going to charge me money for picking it up for me or something, and made my way to the pay-in-advance taxis. I got to the train station and after 35mins of wandering over to the next platform where the train is supposed to be, I got a taxi back to the airport to pre-pay a driver for Mysore. I needed to pee desperately, and there is a 3hr journey to Mysore from Bangalore. There was of course nowhere I could go and have my stuff with me too. At that point, I gave up on the train.

The trip in the taxi was good, my driver filled up on gas and put air in the tires and we were off. We won many a head-to-head with other vehicles to see who would fit in the next smallest space up ahead. This man had a great love of music, as he constantly played a few tunes off a tape, then huffed and puffed, and then put a new one in and would then only leave it until he was ready for something more specific. When it was the right tune, he turned the sound up loud as it would go. I definately wasn't going to fall asleep which was good. I think he would have liked a samba mix, he was definately into the percussions.

When we got to Mysore he didn't know where he was going so he stopped to ask about 9 different rickshaw men and their answer went something like this: "Gokulam wadadadadada lummmy lamamama right, straight lalalaama lumy right, straight" - and so he turned left. I'm not an expert at the language but it does make you wonder if that's why we were so lost for 30mins. One rickshaw man decided that it would be best to tell me all about how to get there in his language while I stared blankly at him. I just said "straight and then right" to my driver...but...ah well we got there in the end. Some children showed us where to go and then tried to sell flowers.

I have already started compiling my list of funny signs, today I particularly like "joy walking might be dangerous". My winning nation so far for this is China.

It's good to be back into India. India is easy as long as you realise that the rules are the opposite here. Everything is going to take ages to get done, but hey, who's in a rush. Being worried about the roads is too tiring, so instead i (try to) chill. One thing for sure is that people are very helpful and most would bend over backwards for you, not necessarily because they see an opportunity to make money in you. But my god do they barter...Not one of my strengths.

Shakti Inn is a great place to stay, great big rooms, everyone is really really nice and I had some french toast and chai, a chat and a shower, and it seems i have finally discovered the internet cafe also. Now I need a nap. Everything is starting to feel strange and marshmellow like! Jet lag.

Tune of the Day: "Dirge" - Chemical Brothers (it's how jet lag feels)

last uk update

Just a few minutes to update quickly. I went to the class at Triyoga last night and I didn't enjoy it. I was out of synch with myself and I kept being picked up on for the shoulders (so tight so tight!). The teacher said that because I was flexible I was lazy because I didn't have to work so hard. Perhaps I have become lazy. I'll soon find out anyway! I started to worry about the yoga in Mysore suddenly during that class but by the end of it I thought to myself that I was going to be paying someone money to worry about it for me. So. Stress over. Let's leave it to the pros. They know what they'e doing.

I had dinner with K, Em, Ch, and his girlfriend. It was cool, we laughed a lot and ate well. Just a little beer, nothing too enthusiastic. Just right.

Now, well in 30mins I'll be on the Picadilly line to heathrow. I couldn't sleep well last night so there' s a higher chance that I will sleep on the plane now!

Next post in Mysore. See you all there :)

Why why why

Mr R said this evening:

"Why can't you be like normal people. Why can't you go to Madeira or something, why do you have to go to a shack in the middle of nowhere for 4 weeks".

He never did like India.